The Orgone Accumulator
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Important News about Sheet-Metal Suppliers
If you follow the news page on this web-site you will know that I am building an orgone shooter for someone. A shooter is simply a small orgone accumulator similar to the one shown in the photographs on the Organic Growing page with a flexible metal tube that passses into the centre through a hole in one of the panels. The tubing is covered with suitable insulating tape and a funnel is attached to the other end of the tube. You can then hold the funnel over an injury or traumatised area to enhance the natural healing processes of the organism. You can also attach a test-tube containing steel-wool instead of a steel funnel and irradiate body orifices with this. While looking for sheet-metal suppliers I have discovered a firm www.buymetalonline.co.uk I have already ordered the sheeting for the shooter from this firm. Their service seems to be exemplary. The phone number on the web-site didn't work, so I e-mailed them to check that they were still in business and got a reply within minutes from a director, who wanted to know which number I had used, so she could put it right, and told me how I could order easily on line. Many metal suppliers sell only a minimum thickness of 1mm. This is quite heavy, so makes your orgone device more unwieldy and harder to move about, costs more, and, most importantly, is almost impossible to cut using hand tools. This firm sell 0.5mm sheets and these you can cut using metal snips, large 'scissors' for cutting metal. For the shooter I have orderd a sheet 3 feet by 2 feet, (metric, about 900mm x 600mm). They were quite happy to supply such a small amount. They will also cut sheets to a size you request. (8. 3. 14.) I have also located a supplier of flexible steel tubing suitable for use in a shooter. There is a link on the Equipment for Doers page.
The Orgone Accumulator
The orgone accumulator is a vital part of orgonomy and the study of orgonomy. Making an accumulator is part of any student of orgonomy's basic education. There are pictures of C O R E's own accumulator here and there on the site and I have now posted one here below. As you can see from the picture, an accumulator is not a complex device at all and anyone with quite average DIY skills should be able to make one without too much difficulty. (For our foreign visitors - DIY = do-it-yourself and is an abbreviation commonly used in the UK to describe the skills needed for and activities of making/repairing domestic furniture, doing repairs to a house, decorating one's home, etc. The German for it is basteln. I don't know what it is in other languages, will add translations, if visitors send them for their own language.)
As far as I know, there is at the moment no-one making accumulators for sale in the UK. The one supplier I used to know has disappeared from the web. You can obtain orgone blankets from various suppliers in Europe and the US and this is feasible, as a blanket is not too heavy. Transporting a rigid accumulator large enough to sit in, the basic model, as shown here, would be prohibitively expensive. So if you want one the only way to get one is to make it yourself or to get someone to make one for you. I do recommend the experience of making one yourself, however limited you feel your skills are. There is nothing quite as satisfying as sitting in an accumulator that you have built yourself. I think making your own accumulator is a basic part of the education of any student of orgonomy.
What is an orgone accumulator?
An orgone accumulator is any device built in a certain way to concentrate the atmospheric orgone energy for medical or experimental purposes. It is constructed according to the principles first discovered by Wilhelm Reich in the late nineteen thirties and early nineteen forties that iron or steel attracts and repels the orgone and that electrical insulators, organic materials, attract and hold the orgone. Accordingly, if we construct a device that has its inner walls of sheet metal, usually galvanised steel sheeting, and alternate layers of an insulator and steel wool with an insulating layer on the outside, we get a draw towards the inside of the device. This draw is even stronger if someone sits inside the device or, if it is of a soft, flexible construction, they wrap it round themselves. Soft accumulators, constructed as mattresses, are typically called orgone blankets and rigid ones that you can sit in are referred to as accumulators, though this is just idiomatic usage that has caught on and stuck. A blanket is just as much an accumulator as a solid one. Many people interested in building or using accumulators seem to be scared of making a solid one with wooden frames and steel sheeting and far more people make blankets than the larger cupboard variety. To make a blanket the skills needed are those of basic needlework and quite different to those needed to make a solid accumulator. There is a picture of a blanket being made on the Carunchio 2012 page. With a really skilled seamstress and two or three sewing machines available, students were able to make several in a few hours.
There are now some photographs of a small experimental accumulator on our Organic Growing page.
What you need: skills, tools, and space.
To make an accumulator you need a few basic skills, a few commonly available tools, and suitable space. Space is a big problem, because the larger panels are quite big, about 36" x 54" (92cm x 137cm), and you need to be able to lay them out flat on the floor or a bench to fill them. The obvious solution to the problem, if you live on the ground, is to build it outside, if you haven't got that sort of space available indoors.
The sewing skills are obvious enough: how to thread a needle, how to handle a large, long needle, long enough to go through several thickish layers, how to cut fabrics in a straight line, and how to manage a sewing machine, if you want to use one. I have made a couple of orgone blankets without using a sewing machine and so it is quite possible to do this, as my sewing skills are very basic indeed. Fortunately the appearance of the finished article, whether rigid or soft, has little if any effect on its functioning capacity.
The woodworking skills needed are - sawing timber along a straight line fairly accurately, drilling holes accurately and countersinking and screwing screws home as needed, measuring and marking out timber for cutting, sanding, filing, cutting metal sheeting to measure, (though you can get your supplier to do this for you for a fee, if you don't feel up to it), drilling holes in the metal sheets, hammering nails in, and possibly a few miscellaneous things that I have forgotten about. If some of these are new to you, there is no reason why you shouldn't learn as you go along. Another option is to enlist the help of a kind friend who has the skills and is willing to do the work to your directions.
Below is the full text of C O R E's booklet - How to Build and Use Your Own Orgone Accumulator. I'm sorry about the reference numbers. One.com's software always does this to them when I copy the text of a booklet to a page. This time, for some unknown reason, it has not changed them all to Roman numerals, which is what is has done on all other occasions when I have copied a booklet to a web-page.
Attached now (March, 2014), are some photos taken while I was building an orgone shooter, a small accumulator with a steel tube leading out of it for local orgone treatment. I am sorry the photos show such poor contrast. On the camera they look fine. Perhaps it's my computer and they will show up OK on yours.
Left: the wooden frame joined at the corners with mitre joints. Right: the same frame on its side with the screws just about visible. I have used two for each corner, but one would do, as once you have attached the steel sheeting the whole structure is very rigid
Left: a detail of the mitre joint. To make a mitre joint you need a mitre block, a simple jig that allows you to hold the timber safely and securely while you saw. It produces very accurate cuts and joints. Right: one of the metal sheets, galvanised steel, cut out of a much larger sheet sent by our suppliers. On the right-hand edge you can just about see the slightly wobbly edge of the hand-made cut.
Left: a pair of snips, the old-fashioned hand-tool that will cut the steel, as long as you obtain 0.5 mm thickness sheets. Any thicker, and you need mechanical cutting equipment. This pair is possibly 100 years old! I inherited them from my father, who acquired them from the widow of an old chap who died at the age of about 80 in 1945. They work perfectly. Right: a frame with its steel sheet attached by nails. You have to drill holes for the nails. You can't just knock a nail through the metal, though you can through the layer of hardboard on the outside. An electric drill makes the job quicker, but it can be done with a hand-drill.
Left: the inner metal sheet nailed onto the wooden frame. You have to cut the sheet slightly smaller than the overall dimensions of the wooden frame, so that you don't have metal edges protruding over the edge of the wood. I also file the cut edges with a large metal file to smooth them down for safety's sake. Right; a closer look at the edge of the metal.
Left: how you cut the sheet with a hole in the middle to accommodate the flexible steel hose. This is my own improvised method, as I do not have equipment to cut a circular hole in the metal with. I cut the sheet in two, and then cut a half-diamond out of the edge of each side. I then cut a block of wood the same depth as the panel, bore a hole through the centre of it and nail the metal to it. I size up the harboard outer layer carefully and mark a circular hole with a pencil through the hole in the wood block. I then cut this out with a drill, 22mm diameter, the same one that I used to drill the hole in the wooden block, and nail the hardboard onto the frame, taking very good care to get everything alined to that the hose will slide through the hole easily. It sounds messy, but in practice it is fairly easy.
Left: the hardboard cut to size for one panel, showing how it sits over the frame. Right: the panels put together, showing how it all works, before you fill the panels.
Left: the layers of alternating insulator and wire wool, prior to attachment of the hardboard outer layer. Right, all the completed panels placed together. The accumulator will now function perfectly well as an orgone accumulator, but if you want to move it about easily or as a shooter with the hose inserted, you need to hoild everything together as a unit. I improvised with two adjustable luggage straps, making a cross-over and holding everything together under slight pressure. Hence the two wooden slats, one just visible in the lower photo to keep the front and back panels from falling inwards when the straps are in place. The assembled accumulator can then be lifted and carried about quite easily. (The slats are attached to the metal with Blutak!) Built like this,the accumulator can also be used for experimental purposes, eg, the seed-germination experiment. The metal hose is coverd with insulating material, thus also functioning as an accumulator, and a steel funnel or test tube containing iron filings is attached to the end of the tubing, the funnel for the irradiation of local wounds, burns, or other trauma, the test-tube for body orifices. There is hardly any knowledge or experience of the use of the accumulator in this country and all users must consider its use as experimental and as research for future users.
Although this is small accumulator, the construction of a much larger sit-in model is virtually the same, except that you have to allow for a door with a window in it for the front panel. The text of the booklet shows you how to do this. I will try and take and post some photos to show you how to do this.
What is an Orgone Accumulator?
An orgone accumulator is a simple therapeutic device first devised by Wilhelm Reich (1897-1957). Reich discovered the orgone during a very prolific and creative working life in psychology, medicine, and science in Norway in the late nineteen thirties and made further major developments in the following years. For details of how Reich came to discover the orgone see The Cancer Biopathy1 published in 1973 by Vision Press and now out of print here but available again in the USA, or his biography Fury on Earth,2 published by Deutsch in 1983. By exploiting the physical properties of the orgone Reich found that he could concentrate it for therapeutic or experimental purposes.
Constructing an Accumulator
The properties that we make use of to construct an orgone accumulator are quite simple – namely that iron attracts the atmospheric orgone energy and throws it out again quickly, while electrical insulators absorb and hold it.3 Thus, if we enclose a space with walls made of alternating layers of steel and insulator with the steel on the inside, we get a draw of energy from the atmosphere into the enclosed space. This draw is even stronger, with an organism inside, as orgone energy is always attracted to a higher concentration of itself. A living organism is, compared to the free orgone energy in the atmosphere, a high-energy system.
The insulating material that Reich recommended himself was fibre-glass,4 the material used to insulate roofs; this is readily available and fairly cheap to buy. The inside layer of steel is best provided by a sheet of galvanised iron, also easily available and fairly cheap. Remember to buy the lightest gauge you can as you are going to need to be able to cut it yourself. This is easy enough if you buy the correct gauge, but difficult, not to mention risky, if you buy heavy gauge sheets. These will need power-driven equipment to cut them such as an angle-grinder, while the light-gauge sheets can easily be cut with a pair of snips. The iron/steel layers inside the walls do not need to be rigid, being contained within the framework, so they can be made from wire-wool, which is a cheap way of obtaining a thin layer of iron or steel. Both the steel-wool and the fibre-glass are harmful to the lungs and eyes, so you should protect yourself with a face-mask and goggles while working with these materials. The wood for the frames of the accumulator walls, floor, and roof is 25mm x 50mm planed (2” x 1”) and the outer layer is ordinary household hardboard. You will need a good quantity of 1” round nails with flat heads to nail the sheet-metal and hardboard to the frames and at least 24 x 11/2” countersunk steel screws for the corner joints of the wall panels. If you are unfamiliar with the names of items here see the drawings. If you are inexperienced at DIY work, I must point out that it is particularly important that you buy and use the right materials. You will need a sheet of 1/8” or 3-4mm thick plywood to support the base, which must carry the weight of a chair and sitter. The plywood layer goes next to and inside the inner layer of sheet-metal, so that it cannot be seen when the base is complete. See diagrams, if in doubt. You will also need 12 x 3” coach bolts, if you wish to build an accumulator that can be dismantled for moving. It is possible to screw all the panels together, so that you end up with a solid accumulator that cannot be taken apart. This will be extremely heavy and unwieldy to move. I would not recommend building one like this unless it is to be used in one place with plenty of space to get in and out. If you live in an ordinary house or flat and expect to move or to store your accumulator at any time, I very much recommend the dismantling model. You may also find that you want to loan your accumulator or demonstrate it somewhere.
To get the best results the inner walls of the accumulator need to be no more than 2-3” away from your body when you sit in it, so ideally, you should design your own accumulator according to the size of the person who is going to use it most. If it is to be built for a child or an unusually small or tall adult, the dimensions will need to be revised accordingly. The dimensions given here are for an ‘average’ size accumulator, which I have built three times and which has given good service. A tall person can fit into this size by simply using a lower chair and a small person could sit on a taller chair, so that their head and shoulders are suitably close to the roof.
In this plan the two side panels measure overall 4’8” x 3’, the base and roof 3’ x 2’4”, the back panel 2’ x 4’8”. The door is slightly narrower as it must swing easily between the sides as you close and open it, so it measures 4’71/2” x 1’11/2”. It is advisable to make the rear panel slightly narrower than the actual size of the space between the two side panels, say, 1’113/4”. It does not matter if there is a small gap between the panels. This design allows the accumulator to be dismantled into its constituent panels and to be moved about.
This list is not complete. You may well find that you need items not mentioned here for one job that takes a few minutes. The obvious thing to do in that case is to borrow the tool in question, unless you see yourself going on to make other things, in which case it might be wise to buy the item, knowing that you will have it to hand, if you need it again. So many people own tools that you could possibly manage the whole job without any of your own tools, if you know someone willing to lend you theirs. Unless you have a carpenter’s bench and an equipped workshop, you will find that you need to improvise when it comes to holding components in place while sawing, drilling, screwing, and nailing. A Workmate is an excellent aid here. Two are even better, as you can then securely support the large panels, the sides, across them. If you are a total beginner, I must point out here that holding items securely in place while you are working on them is more than half the job done, when you are sawing, screwing, or nailing. This is particularly important, if you are a beginner and not too confident with your tools. Remember this to make the job as easy and as safe for yourself as possible.
Hand or electric drill and suitable selection of bits
Pencil – soft lead, 2-3B
Steel tape for measuring dimensions
Large, worn-out scissors for cutting wire-wool
(the wire will wreck a good, sharp pair).
Bradawl – useful for starting holes to be drilled
Spirit level – handy for checking vertical when you drill holes for coach bolts, etc
Mortice-gauge – best way of marking the centre-line of the members prior to marking them to cut corner joints (See drawing if this is new to you).
If you are a complete beginner with wood, saw, and screws, I suggest you start with making the base or top so that you are more confident when it comes to handling the larger components. You will find that holding things in place while you work on them is one of the main difficulties, especially if you are improvising without a workshop or bench. A Workmate is an excellent substitute for a real carpenter’s bench. So many people own one that you should not find it difficult to borrow one. Cut the members to the dimensions as indicated in the drawings. A saw removes its own thickness of wood plus a little more, so you need to allow for this when sawing and saw just outside the line you have marked. To mark the timber for sawing measure the dimension from one end to the appropriate distance along the timber and mark this with a pencil. (A carpenter’s pencil is a soft one, 2-3B, which needs to be sharpened frequently. This, when well sharpened, leaves a clearly visible line on wood.) Place a try-square across the timber as in the drawing and draw through your mark, leaving a clearly visible line. If you want to be sure of cutting your timber nice and square all round, you can also mark a second line on the face of the wood away from you as you saw. You can then look down this face and line as you saw and be sure of cutting across the wood at right angles. An experienced handyman will be able to do this accurately enough by eye. When you have cut all four members correctly you should end up with 2 longer pieces 2’ 8” in length and 2 shorter ones 2’ 4” in length. To cut the corner joints take one side member and place an end member against it as in the drawing. Draw along the line a-b as in the drawing. If in doubt, place the try-square over the line and go over it with your pencil against the metal to be sure that the line crosses the wood at right angles. Turn the square over as in the diagram and mark a line on the side. You now need to find an accurate way of marking off exactly half the depth of the wood. It is no good just halving the 2” or 50mm! These dimensions are purely nominal and after the wood has been planed by machine it is always much smaller than its stated dimensions. The most accurate way of doing this is to use a mortice gauge, (see drawing), and to play about with it on a scrap off-cut until you get the pin scribing a line in the middle of the wood whichever side you mark it from. See drawing if this is not clear to you. When cutting these joints, remember that you ‘lose’ some wood from the sawing and start your cut outside the line you have marked. If you have left the wood a bit too big, you can always pare it down with a chisel or sand it down. If you are a beginner, mark the bit that you want to cut out with hatching. It is very easy, even when experienced, to remove by mistake the ‘wrong bit’ when cutting joints.
When you have cut these four members to size and prepared the corner joints, you can assemble the top or base. It is important to have plenty of time and physical space to do this first piece very carefully and exactly, especially if you are a beginner with tools and finding your way. There is nothing in this job that a fairly intelligent and careful hand and eye cannot do. If you have unaccountably wasted a member by cutting it too short or made a mess of the corner joint cuts, by starting with a smaller piece you will not have wasted too much wood. Once you have cut the pieces you are ready to assemble them. If you find at this stage that your pieces sit together and make a tolerably square rectangle, you are well on the way. Place a long and a short member together with the joints lapping and prepare to drill a hole for the screw. It is advisable to hold the pieces together so you can drill the hole through the two pieces as one. The most primitive but by no means ineffective way of doing this is by kneeling on them once you have positioned them correctly. Remember that the drill-bit may go right through both pieces and make a hole in whatever you are working on. If you are unavoidably working on an expensive floor or a stone or tiled one that will damage your drill, set the pieces on a piece of scrap timber. Drill the ‘top’ piece of wood with a slightly larger bit and the bottom one with a smaller one, as a screw tapers. Obviously, drill through first with the smaller bit and then drill out the upper piece slightly with the larger bit. Countersink the hole where the screw-head is going to sit. This allows the head to nestle neatly below the surface of the wood.
If you have done this cutting and drilling carefully you should by now have the pieces ready to build the base and top. Take your countersunk 11/2” screws and screw the members together, so that you have two more or less identical rectangular frames. Do not despair if there is a slight disparity in size or shape. The accumulator will still fit together, and more importantly, will still work. You will find that the frames are by no means rigid at this stage. This does not matter. Once the metal sheets are nailed to the frames they will be perfectly rigid. Place a frame on a flat surface, check it for squareness with the try-square, clamping it somehow if it wants to spring out of shape again, and measure the length and width. Subtract 1/4" from these dimensions so that your steel sheets do not protrude at all over the edges and cut the sheets to size using your metal snips or order them from your supplier. It is important that you make your frames first and cut your sheets accordingly. It is far easier to cut the sheets to a precise size than it is to build the frames to one, especially if you are a beginner.
Cutting the metal sheets to size is quite simple. Find a suitable scriber, anything with a sharp point that will leave a scratch mark. Even a nail or longish screw will do, though do not use a tool in good condition in current use such as a chisel or screwdriver. Galvanised iron comes in 8’ x 4’ sheets. To mark out a dimension you need to mark it out from the edge at two points and draw a line through the points along a piece of wood (straight!) as a ruler, unless you have a long metal rule or very large try-square. This is to ensure that your sheet is truly rectangular with right angles at each corner. To have enough metal for this design you will need 3 sheets, which unfortunately leaves a lot of waste. However, you can use this later to make smaller experimental accumulators for very little cost.
Drill holes for the nails along the edges of the metal sheets with a suitably sized metal drilling bit, place them about 2-3” apart and so that the nails will emerge into the center of the frame members, (see drawing). Remember that the sheets are of quite soft metal and the drill will suddenly ‘pop’ through and penetrate anything below it as you drill Get your 1” round, flat-headed nails and hammer these in through the holes in the frame so you end up with a rigid rectangle of wood like a box with a metal ‘floor.’
Before you attach the sheets to the frames you need to cut a space out on the edge of the metal for the coach-bolts. These allow you to dismantle your accumulator. See the drawings for where to position these. This is a satisfying stage and you will probably feel that it is all beginning to look like an accumulator. After the metal sheet is attached to the first frame, lay the second frame over the first and ease it into shape so that it corresponds exactly to the one below. Cut the sheet, drill the holes, and attach the steel in the same way. (Remember to put the sheet of plywood in between the frame and the metal for the base. Cut this to the same size as the metal so that there is no protruding plywood or metal.) It is important that the two opposite number frames, base and top or left and right sides, are almost exactly the same shape or you will have trouble assembling the accumulator. This correspondence of shape is more important than a slight departure from true right-angledness, as you will see later. (See drawings for explanation.) Construct the back and sides in the same way so that you now have a top and base, two sides, and the back, all as open boxes with metal bases, the bases forming the inside metal walls of the accumulator.
Now is the best time to bore the holes for the coach-bolts. You will almost certainly need an assistant to hold the parts in place while you drill the holes. Place the base on the ground on a firm, flat surface and stand the two sides on it, as if you were fitting the accumulator together. Your assistant can now hold the two sides in position while you place the top across the two sides. It is important that the two sides are more or less vertical and remain vertical while you are drilling. If you doubt your assistant’s eye, you can tape a small spirit-level to one side within view of at least one of you, preferably your assistant, so that you can be sure that the walls remain vertical. Using a suitably sized bit, drill down vertically through a side member of the top and into the top member of the side below it all in one go, so that the two holes in the two members correspond exactly. You should use a bit that is the same diameter as the coach-bolts, so that the fit as you slot the coach-bolt in is fairly tight. Countersink the upper end of the hole in the top and drill out a round housing on the lower side for the nut on the coach bolt. This must sit flush with the surface so that the top can lie snugly on the upper member of the side, when you put the accumulator together. Depending on the tools you have available, you can drill this housing out with a wide cutting bit using a brace or electric drill or cut it out with a mallet and chisel. The latter will not be so neat. Repeat this process four times, twice on each side of the top.
Now take the pieces apart and screw in the coach-bolts. The threaded section should protrude below the inner face of the top; with your assistant’s help again, set up the accumulator, sides on base, and place the top on the sides. With a bit of pushing and pulling the coach-bolts should drop into the drilled-out holes in the sides and hold them together. It helps to mark the sides ‘left’ and ‘right’ and the sides of the top correspondingly in case there is a slight discrepancy n the positions of the bolts. You can then be sure that the twin holes and bolts fit together. NB at this stage to assistant! The sides are not attached to the base. The assembly should still be held together by hand and not rocked or bumped.
You can now place the back of the accumulator between the two sides. Repeat the drilling process and the siting of the two bolts. Now take the structure apart and put it together upside down, ie, place the top on the ground, with its bolts protruding upwards. Carefully slot each side onto the bolts with your assistant standing ready to steady the sides. Taking the same precautions over verticality, place the base on the top of the two sides, get your helper to steady everything, and drill the holes for the bolt heads and drill the housings for the nuts on the coach-bolts. Take it all apart and screw the coach-bolts onto place. Put the back in position and do the same with the base and back and get some idea of what your accumulator will look like. The actual structure will be much more stable than it seems now because of the extra weight of the packing in the panels.
The construction of the door now follows and this is different and slightly more complex than the sides because you need a window in it, so that users can look out and have some light and circulating air in the accumulator.
Although by now you are itching to fill at least one side or top and to see if you get any noticeable ‘draw,’ it is best to attach the hinges for the door before you fill the panels. It is much easier to do this while the door is light and unpacked. Attach the hinges at about 4 and 6 inches from the top and bottom respectively and then mark the positions for them on the front face of the sides from which the door will hang and screw them into position, if necessary enlisting the help of your assistant to hold the door in place, while you drill and screw. It is always easier to attach the hinge first on the door rather than on the frame. You then hold the door in position, (with the help of your wonderful assistant again!), mark the site for the hinges on the side of the accumulator and drill holes for the upper screw of each hinge. You can then put in the screws so that the door is held in place for the time being while you screw in the other screws. The upper screws will carry the weight of the door for a few minutes, as long as it is not pulled or wrenched. As we are using hinges with free spindles that you can withdraw at will you are not now stuck with an inseparable door and side, (which would be very heavy and unwieldy). Hold the door carefully, push the spindle from below with the flat of a screwdriver until the head is free to extract; withdraw the lower spindle still holding the door very carefully, so that the remaining hinge is not wrenched, and then do the same with the second hinge. The door and the side can now be filled at leisure and linked again at your convenience. Remember that the door is going to have a window in it and so will need some extra work before it is ready to fill. See below for how to make the window opening.
The most challenging part of your work, at least as far as handwork goes, is now over. The rest of the construction, filling the walls of your accumulator, may challenge your patience but is in fact very easy. It is a good plan to insert a cross-member in the sides to inhibit any tendency of the filling to slide down inside. To do this simply measure the distance at right angles between the two members half way between the top and bottom, cut a piece to fit, place it in situ and hammer a single nail in through the side members; (see drawing). If you want to do a real craftsman’s job, you can put in a countersunk screw instead of a nail.
While filling the panels you should take effective precautions against fibre-glass and wire-wool, both of which shed very fine harmful particles that can get into your eyes and lungs, unless you are careful. Always wear a face-mask and goggles while working with these materials and keep anyone well out of the way, particularly small children and animals. It is advisable to have a vacuum-cleaner handy and to clean up the fine particles every now and again, so that you do not walk back into living quarters with damaging dust on your feet or clothes.
To fill the panels unroll a few feet of your fibre-glass and cut off a suitable length to fit in between the members of the top or base. As with the construction of the timber frames, it is best to fill a small panel first to get the feel of working with your materials. If you find that you have to completely remake a panel you won’t have lost too much time. You will notice that the fibre-glass is in rough layers. The standard roof-insulation that you can buy from any builders’ merchant is about 2” thick and you will get enough for three layers from this. Roughly divide the roll into three and pull a layer off. Lay this down on the ‘box’ next to the galvanized iron. You will need to pull off a further strip of the same length and cut it down in width so that it fills in the empty space, leaving the metal covered with a single layer of fibre-glass. You have now got one accumulating layer in place!
Now perform a similar operation with the wire-wool Take one of your packs and unroll it. Using some large old scissors, cut off the approximate length, the internal width of the base/top and tease it out sideways as far as you can without getting clear space between the strands of wire. The yellow colour of the fibre-glass makes this simple, as it shows through so well. Lay the wire on the fibre-glass, cutting off more as needed, until you have a full layer of it covering the fibre-glass. Repeat this with alternating layers of fibre-glass and wire-wool, until you have got four layers, ie, the metal, a layer of insulator, wire-wool, insulator, wire-wool, insulator, wire-wool, and insulator. This is all kept in place by the external wall of the panel, which is the hardboard. This needs to be cut to size like the metal sheets, about 1/8” less all round than the overall dimensions of the panels. Thus, if your base box is, for example, 24” x 30”, your hardboard outside layer should be cut to 233/4” x 293/4 “.
Repeat this filling of each panel leaving the door until the last for the simple reason that constructing the door demands more skill than the other panels. If you do it last, your skills will have increased greatly. The door needs a window in it, so that users can see out and air can circulate easily in the accumulator. The main difficulty here for the amateur is cutting a rectangular opening in the metal sheeting. The snips that you have been using so far will definitely not do this as they can only cut in from an edge. There is an easy way round this. Decide on the height of your window, to be exact, the height of the base of the window from the base of the door, and cur right across the metal sheet already cut out for the door. (See drawings.) Drill holes for the nails in the usual way all round this piece of the door sheet, nail it to the inside of the door sheet, nail it to the inside of the door. Now measure and cut a piece of your remaining 25 x 50 mm timber to fit across the inside of the door panel. Nail or screw this into place taking care that the member is parallel with the door base and that only half the thickness is below the metal nailed to the door frame, leaving the other for you to nail on the upper sheet of metal. (If in doubt, see drawings.) These two lines of nails are going to be much closer to the edge of the wood than the other ones, so take care when hammering that the nails do not protrude through the side of the wood.
Next decide on the width and height of the window, and mark or scribe this shape onto the upper part of the door sheet that you have cut in two. You should now have a rectangle scribed out on the sheet. Cut into the sheet with your snips from the edge along the two vertical lines, cutting just beyond the line marking the top of the window. You should now be able to peel back this sheet from the window opening and with a bit if fiddling and cursing ease the snips blades under it and start a cut along the top of the window opening. Now make a simple wooden frame from scrap timber for the window. This needs to be only a three-sided shape as you already have the base within the door. It is satisfying to make this properly and finish it well, but in practice it only needs to hold together until you have nailed the metal in place. This will automatically turn it into quite a strong structure, which becomes even stronger when you finally nail the outer hardboard on. Remember to make the frame opening a little smaller than the hole in the metal, so that when you nail the metal down, it does not overlap the wood. (If in doubt, see drawings.) Once you have got this far, fill the door in exactly the same way as the other panels. This will be a bit more awkward, as you have got to work round the window, but in principle is exactly the same operation.
Cutting the window in the hardboard outer sheet is much easier than cutting it in the metal. Before you fill the door panel lay it over the hardboard on the floor or working surface. Draw round the inside of the window opening on the inside of the hardboard, as in drawings. Draw another line 1/8“ inside (nearer the wooden frame) this line and cut to it. To start the internal cut in hardboard is quite simple. Drill a small hole in one corner of your opening, or if you don’t trust your own accuracy, in the dead space in the centre somewhere close to the marked line. Get a fret saw, which is a saw with a very fine, flexible blade stretched between the two ends of a flexible frame. Undo one end of the blade, leave the other in the frame, thread the blade through the hole, insert it into its frame housing in the saw and tighten the bolt, so that the blade is now in place again and usable. Saw quickly up and down without putting too much pressure on the blade as you cut along. In this way you will be able to steer the saw round the corners without difficulty. When you have got right round the rectangle, the inside piece falls out and your sheet of hardboard for the door is ready. Reverse the process with the blade, unscrewing it, extracting it from the opening, screw the blade back in again and the saw is ready for further use. Now fill the door panel in the same way as the others, place your hardboard sheet over the filling, press it into place and hammer in the nails, attaching it to the frame, both round the edges and inside the window. Your accumulator is now virtually finished.
It is convenient for users, if the door can be latched shut. An uneven floor can make the door swing open. A simple hook and eye on the outside, reachable from within the accumulator through the window, holds the door shut. You must be sure that anyone in the accumulator can get out whenever they want to.
The great moment now comes when you assemble the accumulator and see if it is ‘drawing’ at all. If atmospheric conditions are good, (bright, high-pressure weather), you can feel the excitation of your own energy by just putting two panels together facing each other a few inches apart and putting your hand in between them. If the accumulator is working, as you sit in it, you should feel some of the subjective sensations described by Reich and experienced by the many people who have sat in my accumulators.
Using Your Accumulator
The orgone accumulator is a therapeutic tool, but there are many other uses for it, especially if you are of a scientific bent and are interested in orgonomy as a whole. There are some contra-indications for the use of the accumulator. These are listed in Reich’s booklet and include any cardio-vascular hypertensive condition. The problem with having an accumulator is that once sick people know about it, they will want to use it willy-nilly, as there is such an unsatisfied need for safe, gentle, non-intrusive medical treatment. There is also a widely held belief that any ‘alternative’ therapy is automatically safe, as one is not using powerful drugs, which often have pronounced side-effects. A cardio-vascular biopathy is an overcharged condition of the organism. Someone suffering from such a condition who uses the accumulator may increase their energy charge still further and so worsen their condition. It is possible to treat such a condition with the accumulator, but this should be done only with the guidance of a medical orgonomist. There are no such practitioners in the UK! If a friend insists on using your accumulator in spite of warnings, make sure that they take full responsibility for their actions and that they are aware of the signs of a rise in blood pressure and cardiac distress and agree to leave the accumulator immediately as soon as they feel the least bit unwell. If such a person is genuinely interested in the use of the accumulator, they might like to borrow a sphygmomanometer and check their blood pressure before and after using the accumulator. (Serious researchers will need to buy one. See the small adverts at the back of Nursing Times for addresses ofsuppliers. This is available from most larger newsagents.) Remember that if they notice a large fall that may be only the effect of sitting quietly for half an hour. They should also try taking readings before and after sitting in a similar chair for the same period to see what effect simply sitting still has on their blood pressure. They should also be checking their blood pressure regularly, to see if it is showing any consistent trend upwards or downwards.
You may be using your own accumulator because it helps you feel well and alive. This is a prophylactic use that Reich himself hoped for.5 He had a vision of an accumulator in every home. You can also use it to encourage the body’s natural defences, when you get a minor illness, such as a cold or flu’.
Another positive use that probably few people think of is to sit in it with a baby or infant on your knee. Young children, whose energy fields are often very lively and responsive, even in the presence of some armouring, really enjoy using the box and spontaneously seem to feel extremely happy in it. Animals, too, seem to be aware of the effect and enjoy sleeping in it. Expectant mothers can help themselves to grow a strong and healthy baby by regularly sitting in the accumulator, say, for about half an hour a day, or longer or more frequently, as long as you feel well. This brings us to the question that everyone asks;
How Long Should I Spend in the Accumulator?
You have probably not thought about it in this way, but if someone offered you a glass of water you would not dream of asking how much you should drink. You would naturally be aware when you had had enough. The same should go for use of the accumulator. Signs of overcharging are feelings of discomfort, muzziness, a full head, possibly a mild headache. It is also possible, though this is speculation, that a user with an overcharged area or segment will feed distress or a sense of congestion there, say, the lungs or the heart, or the pelvis. If you do feel such localized distress, I suggest you tread very cautiously and use the accumulator in very small doses to start with. These symptoms are very similar to what one feels in orgone therapy when one generates a lot of energy and armouring prevents its free movement. One can feel an overfullness anywhere where energy is trapped. If you have a hypertensive friend who insists on using your accumulator, it is vital that they are aware of these signs and leave the accumulator immediately they sense them at all. A hypertensive person with a history of heart problems should particularly look out for any sense of pressure and/or distress in the chest. If they insist on using your accumulator, suggest that they start with a really short session, say 5 minutes, and increase this gradually.
A short explanation may help readers to understand the importance of precautions in the case of cardio-vascular biopathies. If the organism is expanding, opening, and relaxing, it is physiologically in a parasympathetic state. This means that the heart-rate and blood pressure fall and this typically happens to anyone who is relaxing and enjoying themselves without exertion. If a person’s armouring feels ‘threatened’ by the raised energy charge brought about by the accumulator, a sudden contraction can occur which means a vaso-constriction, (contraction of the peripheral blood vessels), an increase in the heart rate and a rise in blood pressure.6 It is obvious that if a person’s cardio-vascular system is already damaged by illness or even just overloaded without clear clinical illness, they would be at risk, if such a severe contraction were to occur. Even though he is so cautious about the use of the accumulator in cases of hypertension, Reich does in fact report in TheCancerBiopathy that preliminary trials with this condition showed that raised blood pressure can be relieved in the accumulator.7
Apart from heart disease, arterio-sclerosis, and hypertension, Reich lists:-
Brain and liver tumours,
History of apoplectic attacks,
Skin inflammation, conjunctivitis,
as conditions in which the accumulator should be used with the utmost caution and with medical supervision, as well as any other disease or condition in which the use of the accumulator has not been tested.8 He was, of course, being ultra-cautious here. Since there are no medical orgonomists in Britain, if we follow his recommendations, our use of the accumulator is going to be extremely limited. If you are already working with an alternative medical practitioner, you can get advice from him or her, but bear in mind that they will almost certainly have no experience of accumulators and probably will not be familiar with the orgonomic model of orgonotic pulsation, expansion and contraction, which explains the reaction of the organism to the effects of the accumulator. Unfortunately this means, in the end, as usual in orgonomic matters in this country, that you are out on your own and will just have to use your common sense and intelligent caution while using your accumulator or offering it to other people.
It is unsafe to use an accumulator near sources of radiation, or strong electro-magnetic fields, which are ‘hostile’ to orgone energy and turn it into DOR (Deadly Orgone).9 These include TV sets, X-ray machines, microwave cookers, and overhead cables. Ideally your accumulator should be used in a well ventilated room. If you feel unwell after sitting in your accumulator, you may have inadvertently produced a DOR-reaction with it. You can ‘undo’ this by dismantling it and placing it outside in an airy fresh environment for some hours. See DeMeo’s Handbook for more information on atmospheric precautions.
Further Use of the Accumulator, Research, and Adaptations
If you have got as far as building your own accumulator you are probably actively interested in and may want to do some basic orgonomic research or construct other forms of accumulator. With hardly any further expense you will find that you can build a small accumulator for experimental purposes from the left-over materials from the larger one. By now you will be able to work out suitable dimensions for yourself. An accumulator with internal dimensions of about a cubic foot, (12” x 12” x 12”), will be suitable for studying the effect of orgone energy on, for example, the germination of seeds and seedling growth. You can investigate this directly by placing seed trays inside the accumulator or indirectly by irradiating water in the accumulator and seeing if this affects the seeds or seedlings in any way. Once you get started all sorts of experiments will come to mind. (Some work in this field has already been done. See DeMeo’s Handbook for details.)There is a rich field waiting to be explored, if we combine orgonomic microscopy, the sphere of bion research, and the investigation of the effects of the accumulator. As far as I know no-one has done work in this field, apart from the simple monitoring of the effect of the accumulator on the red blood cells. There are many lifetimes’ work waiting to be done in orgonomy.
One interesting area that has not been explored as far as I know is the effect of orgone energy on the hatching of insect eggs, chrysalises, and frogspawn, to suggest but a few items. Remember that however small an area you choose to work in, you are helping to fill in the many vast unexplored areas of orgonomy and are almost certain to be making original discoveries as you go along. You will probably have to do a great deal of self-directed learning and get used to ferreting around on your own in textbooks and reference books. You may also find that there is virtually no information available at all in some areas that are of importance in orgonomy but of no interest at all to conventional science
You can make a ‘shooter’ by feeding a length of flexible steel tubing through a hole in one side of your accumulator, attaching a steel funnel to the free end of the tubing. Turn the tubing into an accumulator by binding a covering of plastic tape round it a few layers deep. This funnel can be placed over a wound, burn or sore and will help the healing process. Such a ‘shooter’ can easily be used in combination with conventional treatment such as the suturing of a wound or specialised dressings on a burn or ulcer. A folding accumulator with three sides hinged together can be built for use on the legs or lower body of someone confined to bed. An orgone-blanket is made of flexible layers on the same principles as the sides of a rigid accumulator, but with no solid external walls. The inner flexible layers are held together with a light fabric covering.
The orgonomic experiment to do is the classic To – T.10 (T = temperature in a control box, To = temperature within the accumulator.) In this you build a control box of similar dimensions and insulating properties as your small experimental accumulator, get 2 calibrated thermometers (so you are aware of any discrepancy in readings before you start), and anchor these so that the bulb is inside the accumulator ans control-box and the temperature readings are outside. Position the two in a transparent protective container away from any sources of direct heat or draughts. (A plastic aquarium tank makes a suitable container.) Take and record frequent readings. Applying the null hypothesis, there should be no difference between the two thermometers. You will almost certainly find that there is a difference, The amount varies according to atmospheric conditions. You should record these with your temperature readings. If you own a barometer, you can record atmospheric pressures, too, and see if there is any consistent relationship between To – T and atmospheric pressure. You can also compare your data with subjective sensations in the larger accumulator. See DeMeo’s Handbook for further suggestions for experimental work with the accumulator.11
The most obvious sign that the energy in the accumulator is affecting you physiologically is a slight rise in temperature.12 You can record this rise (or lack of it) and relate this, too, to your other readings. You are now becoming an orgonomist! If your research develops and you make interesting discoveries, C O R E would very much like to hear from you. Please feel free to contact us, if you need any further information about building or using an accumulator.
The possible medical uses of the accumulator are many. I shall suggest only a few obvious ones. Apart from those already mentioned it might be possible to use it in neo-natal intensive care to help alleviate the bad effects on the infant’s energy field and metabolism resulting from the loss of contact with the mother that occurs when the baby is in an incubator; in first aid work in accident and emergency departments and as a post-operative healing aid; workers with access to monitoring equipment could do extremely valuable and interesting research into then effects of the accumulator on human physiology. (A start has been made in such work with the randomised control trial conducted by Müschenich and Gebauer in Germany, summarised in DeMeo’s Handbook.) The study of the effects of the orgone accumulator on the blood is a rich field for research for those with access to microscopes and blood testing equipment. (The various blood tests that Reich devised are described in detail in The Cancer Biopathy and some more recent work is reported on in the US orgonomic journals.)
What is the Point of Orgonomic Research?
Virtually any research done with accumulators that shows that they have an effect on human or animal physiology or on the germination and growth of plants confirms firstly that the orgone, discovered by Reich between about 1935 and 1940, really does exist and secondly helps to add to the small but steadily accumulating evidence that confirms his discovery and fills in some of the gaps in this huge, uncharted, fascinating, and beautiful territory.
Orgonomic work makes surprising connections with other disciplines. My own experience illustrates this. I built a small accumulator for experimental purposes from left-over waste materials from the construction of a full-size accumulator and did a simple experiment with cress seeds. I counted out two lots of a hundred cress seeds from the same packet and sowed them in two batches of soil weighed precisely and dry-sterilised in a domestic oven to kill off any stray seeds that might germinate and interfere with the cress. I watered the two seed-boxes at the same time each day with the same carefully measured amount of water. One box I placed for a period each day in the small accumulator. The second box, when the first one was in the accumulator, I placed under a light-proof cover to ensure that the height of the orgone seedlings was not artificially increased in the dark. Plants growing in the dark will grow faster as they ‘reach’; for the light. (This tendency is exploited when gardeners ‘force’ crops, eg, celery, to grow faster by piling up soil around them, leaving a tip above the surface.) Thus both trays were exposed to identical conditions except that the first one spent time each day in the accumulator. After two weeks the average height of the accumulator plants above the soil was 2.5 inches and that of the second box 1.5 inches. An ‘accident’ produced an interesting finding. In a period of very warm, dry weather, I forgot to water the trays. By the time I had remembered them the control plants had all collapsed and were lying flat on the surface of the soil. The accumulator plants, although much taller and therefore presumably needing more water to retain their turgor, had not yet collapsed completely. I left both boxes until the accumulator plants had collapsed completely. I then watered them again with carefully measured equal amounts of water. The accumulator plants regained their original height and turgor much more quickly than the controls.
Although fairly predictable to the orgonomist, this simple experiment and the plants’ reaction to stress suggests an immediate parallel with the psycho-physiology of stress and illness. The orgonotically strong individual falls prey to illness and stress much less easily than someone with a weak energy field and metabolism and recovers more quickly when conditions improve again. Reich repeatedly pointed out that orgone energy is ‘water-hungry:’ therefore an orgonotically highly charged cell will retain its water volume more effectively than a cell with a low orgone charge. It also suggests an orgonomic explanation for Michel Odent’s finding13 that babies who spend their early hours and days in close physical contact with their mothers and who breast-feed frequently on demand do not lose weight after birth; (this loss is thought normal in conventional baby-care). The baby’s maintenance of the birth weight can be explained by the higher orgonotic charge of its cells because of the generous level of body-contact with the mother and her energy-field and their greater capacity to ‘hold onto’ their water content. So… C O R E looks forward to hearing from you. We would very much appreciate copies of any written reports that you have made. Your contributions will be gratefully received and acknowledged. We will not quote you without permission and your work will, of course, be cited as a source like any other worker’s research, if we refer to it in our own research.
2 Sharaf M (1983); Fury on Earth, Deutsch, London.
4 Reich W (1951); The Orgone Accumulator – Its Medical and Scientific Use, Orgone Insitute Press, Rangeley, Maine.
6 Reich W (1951); op cit, 7, B, Overcharged Biopathies.
8 Reich W (1951); op cit.
9 DeMeo J (1989); The Orgone Accumulator Handbook, chapter 8, Warnings and Dangers; the Effects of Oranur and DOR, Natural Energy Works, Greensprings, Oregon.
10 Reich W (1973); op cit, pp 112-126, Thermic Measurement of Atmospheric Orgone Energy (Thermic Orgonometry).
11 DeMeo J; op cit, chapter 13, Some Simple and Not So Simple Experiments with the Orgone Accumulator.
12 Reich W (1973); op cit, p 317.
13 Odent M (1992); The Nature of Birth and Breast-Feeding, p 85, Bergin and Garvey, Westport, Connecticut.
Posted October 3rd, 2012. Last revised October 10th, 2018.
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